• May 27, 2014  What causes my Yamaha 150 vmax hpdi outboard to lug down when gets past half throttle. Runs fine at half throttle or less. Posted by Scott smith on May 26, 2014. Clymer Marine Maintenance and Repair Manual '99 '02 Yamaha 115 250 HP 2 stroke Outboards; Open Questions: 0 Answers 1999 merc 15 hp 2 stroke.
• 150 OWNER’S MANUAL 64C-28199-1C U.S.A.Edition LIT-18626-06-98. To the owner Thank you for choosing a Yamaha outboard motor. This Owner’s Manual contains infor-mation needed for proper operation, mainte-nance and care. A thorough understanding of these simple instructions will help you ob. 150HP Owner's Manual.

1. 2006 Yamaha 150 Hpdi
2. Yamaha Vmax Hpdi Reviews

Here’s why so many boaters still rely on Yamaha’s HPDI ® two stroke outboards: Incredible Power With six independent fuel injectors, the air/fuel ratio is fine tuned for each cylinder. This results in quick starts, rapid acceleration and incredible top end. Reliability The Electronic Control Module regulates ignition and injection timing for optimal combustion and instant throttle response resulting in a lightning-quick hole shot and cleaner engine emissions. Compact Design A 76° V-block gets maximum power out of a narrow design while still maintaining ample cooling passages. Extreme Yamaha Durability Yamaha’s exclusive YDC-30 Alloy is one of the most corrosion-resistant base materials in the industry. Used with our proprietary ACP-221 Paint Process, it provides an extra-tough barrier against corrosion.

They’re both key components of our renowned Ultimate Corrosion Protection System (UCP), which is featured on all Yamaha HPDI ® two strokes. Low Emissions Yamaha HPDI ® two strokes meet all applicable EPA emissions requirements. /wptabcontent wptabtitleStandard Features/wptabtitle wptabcontent.

The Boating Forum - DO'S and DONT's of HPDI'S - I have found a nice. The 200hp and 150hp HPDIs are some of the best engines Yamaha.

Hi, new to the forum, sorry if this is in the wrong place. I have a Yamaha Vmax HPDI 150 hp engine from 2002. We've had some problems with the oil. It doesn't fill up the internal oil tank in the engine, from the big oil tank.

It just starts to beep whenever it is low on oil instead of filling up automatically before the warning comes on. This leads to me having to use the little lever on the internal tank to transfer oil. This means that the pump is working when you turn it on manually. The wiring from the big tank to the small one seem fine. Left to be faulty is the ECU. Found one on eBay from the same kind of engine, but a 2003 instead of a 2002. The part number on the 'donor' engine is not the same as on my engine though.

Possibly because my engine was bought and sold in Europe? What do you guys think, is it still the same engine even though the numbers are different? Would it work? Also, what happens if I put an ECU from a 175 hp vmax hpdi in my engine? Would it turn it into a 175hp engine?

Any input is appreciated! Thanks jethro1 12:59 PM. For some reason the natural inclination seems to be not to trouble shoot but to throw an expensive ECU at the problem. Don't know where you want to get with that. And trust me, a new ECU fitted by an authorized dealer here is $9-12k so I have been trouble shooting the best I can. We have had this problem for two years with three different mechanics looking at it. The engine has about 150 hours with this problem now.

Unknown total hours on engine and the previous owner didn't treat the engine too well so it is quite corroded under the 'hood'. But it is running great when it is running. And we know that this engine is a 'ticking bomb' that will fail sooner or later.

We're just interested in seeing if we can get a few more years out of it before getting a new engine as that is quite a big investment. We changed the instruments three years back. The oil shows one bar and one bar flashing. It never shows the full three bars. When we run it at around 4300-4500 rpm, it consumes a small tank 'the container in the engine' in forty minutes and starts to signal 'low on oil' with the beeping, cutting revs. What's interesting is as I mentioned, it never shows 'full oil', three bars or whatever on the instruments. The remote tank which is located in our console has been both full and almost empty throughout these two years.

Also, sometimes (very rarely), maybe three times during the 150 hours with the problem, it has filled up automatically. But then the next time the internal container is on low, it just starts to beep. We have changed the electrics in the small container in the engine. (Reservoir cap with sending unit) We had a mechanic here today.

He said that he could get read outs of electricity in the wires from the big tank to the smaller one or wherever the wires go. And as the prime start is working just fine, this is confirmed (he told me that the prime start is on the same wires as the oil). He said something about the trim/tilt indicator not working properly and worked his way around it and still no result. I don't know how the oil is connected to the trim/tilt though. Maybe the tank in the engine doesn't fill up if the engine is tilted in an extreme angle.?

Might be worth to mention that this is an engine fitted to an Osprey Vipermax 6.5 (British extreme rib) so it is not fitted on one of those American bass boats (sorry if I spelt it wrong). Jethro1 05:02 PM. Don't know where you want to get with that. I got it from your comment 'The wiring from the big tank to the small one seem fine. Left to be faulty is the ECU.' On this and other boards I frequent folks that are having difficulties with their oil transfer systems and other issue seem to want to go to the ECU. I just worked another post on another board where the motor would not turn off.

Guy said he needed to replace the ECU. It was just a bit of corrosion on the white wire pin at the ECU.

We changed the instruments three years back. The oil shows one bar and one bar flashing.

It never shows the full three bars. This indicates that the motor thinks, right or wrong, that the remote oil tank is low on oil. If the remote tank is low on oil (or the motor thinks it is low) the automatic oil transfer is terminated. The right bar disappears and the middle bar starts flashing.

We had a mechanic here today. He said that he could get read outs of electricity in the wires from the big tank to the smaller one or wherever the wires go.

And as the prime start is working just fine, this is confirmed (he told me that the prime start is on the same wires as the oil). An HPDI is fuel injected.

It does not use a Primestart device for cold starts. He said something about the trim/tilt indicator not working properly and worked his way around it and still no result. The trim sender is out of the oil transfer loop on a Yamaha2002 HPDI. I don't know how the oil is connected to the trim/tilt though.

Maybe the tank in the engine doesn't fill up if the engine is tilted in an extreme angle.? Might be worth to mention that this is an engine fitted to an Osprey Vipermax 6.5 (British extreme rib) so it is not fitted on one of those American bass boats (sorry if I spelt it wrong). What is the complete identity of your motor? Model and primary ID please.

Is it a Z150QETO and does the PID start with 6J9 followed by the letter L? If so, what are the digits that follow. Baggen 02:33 AM. I suspect that you have a connectivity issue from the remote tank sensor switch to both the ECU and the tachometer. With sufficient oil in the remote tank the switch is closed.

This allows a ground signal from the block to be sent to both the tachometer and the ECU. If that ground signal does not get to the tachometer the right bar will disappear and the middle bar will flash. If that ground signal does not get to the ECU then the auto transfer function will not work.

First, check the ground connection point on the engine block. It provides the ground to the sensor switch. Maybe remove the connector lead and clean both the ring terminal and the block with a mild abrasive, such as a green scotch brite pad. Check the sensor switch itself for continuity. Float up, switch is closed. Float down, switch is open.

Check the wiring in the oil harness from the sensor to the engine harness connector. With the float up the black wire with a red tracer should be grounded. With the float down that same wire should be grounded. Here is a test to try.

Disconnect the engine side connector for the oil harness. It is blue in colour. With the key switch 'on' the tachometer lights should be as you described (right bar gone, middle bar flashing). Jumper the pin for the black wire with the red tracer to a known ground source. The side of the block for instance.

Does the tachometer change such that all three bars are now illuminated? If so, the problem is in the harness back to the remote tank, the sensor itself, or the sensors connection to ground. Here is a diagram to show you the ground path that needs to be made for the system to work correctly.

Trouble shoot a bit more and let us know what you find out. Baggen 02:29 PM. I suspect that you have a connectivity issue from the remote tank sensor switch to both the ECU and the tachometer.

With sufficient oil in the remote tank the switch is closed. This allows a ground signal from the block to be sent to both the tachometer and the ECU. If that ground signal does not get to the tachometer the right bar will disappear and the middle bar will flash.

If that ground signal does not get to the ECU then the auto transfer function will not work. First, check the ground connection point on the engine block. It provides the ground to the sensor switch.

Maybe remove the connector lead and clean both the ring terminal and the block with a mild abrasive, such as a green scotch brite pad. Check the sensor switch itself for continuity. Float up, switch is closed.

Float down, switch is open. Check the wiring in the oil harness from the sensor to the engine harness connector. With the float up the black wire with a red tracer should be grounded. With the float down that same wire should be grounded.

Here is a test to try. Disconnect the engine side connector for the oil harness. It is blue in colour. With the key switch 'on' the tachometer lights should be as you described (right bar gone, middle bar flashing). Jumper the pin for the black wire with the red tracer to a known ground source. The side of the block for instance. Does the tachometer change such that all three bars are now illuminated?

If so, the problem is in the harness back to the remote tank, the sensor itself, or the sensors connection to ground. Here is a diagram to show you the ground path that needs to be made for the system to work correctly. Trouble shoot a bit more and let us know what you find out. Thanks for all the help. We'll try this tomorrow. Let's hope that it works:) Baggen 01:38 PM. I suspect that you have a connectivity issue from the remote tank sensor switch to both the ECU and the tachometer.

With sufficient oil in the remote tank the switch is closed. This allows a ground signal from the block to be sent to both the tachometer and the ECU. If that ground signal does not get to the tachometer the right bar will disappear and the middle bar will flash. If that ground signal does not get to the ECU then the auto transfer function will not work. First, check the ground connection point on the engine block. It provides the ground to the sensor switch. Maybe remove the connector lead and clean both the ring terminal and the block with a mild abrasive, such as a green scotch brite pad.

Check the sensor switch itself for continuity. Nissan navara d40 problems. Float up, switch is closed. Float down, switch is open. Check the wiring in the oil harness from the sensor to the engine harness connector. With the float up the black wire with a red tracer should be grounded.

With the float down that same wire should be grounded. Here is a test to try. Disconnect the engine side connector for the oil harness. It is blue in colour. With the key switch 'on' the tachometer lights should be as you described (right bar gone, middle bar flashing). Jumper the pin for the black wire with the red tracer to a known ground source.

The side of the block for instance. Does the tachometer change such that all three bars are now illuminated?

If so, the problem is in the harness back to the remote tank, the sensor itself, or the sensors connection to ground. Here is a diagram to show you the ground path that needs to be made for the system to work correctly. Trouble shoot a bit more and let us know what you find out. Took a little longer to do this check than we we thought. Here are the results: The remote tank is full.

Still flashing. One bar and middle bar flashing Disconnected the small tank in the engine - beeps, just one bar (flashing) Same when grounding the black wire to the engine block Checked the sensor in the small tank, in the engine.

Starts beeping when float is on bottom. One bar and one bar flashing when float up and ignition is on (have to restart engine to get rid if the beeping). Tried to move float in remote tank up and down. No change on instruments. Would it be possible to trick the remote tank sensor into thinking that it is always full and that way go around the problem? Jethro1 02:07 PM. Did you confirm that you have a good ground to the remote tank sensor?

Did you confirm that the remote tank sensor has continuity through its switch when the float is up but no continuity when the float is down? Did you perform a continuity check of the black wire with red stripe from the remote tank sensor terminal to the ECU terminal? Once again, if the tachometer does not see a ground signal from the remote tank sensor the right bar will disappear and the middle bar will flash. If the ECU does not see a ground signal from the remote tank sensor then it will inhibit (not allow) the automatic oil transfer system to function. Why are you messing with the engine mounted small tank when clearly the issue is with the boat mounted tank or the wiring thereto? The whole system can be stripped from the motor if that is what someone wants to do.

Baggen 03:08 PM. Did you confirm that you have a good ground to the remote tank sensor? Did you confirm that the remote tank sensor has continuity through its switch when the float is up but no continuity when the float is down?

2006 Yamaha 150 Hpdi

Did you perform a continuity check of the black wire with red stripe from the remote tank sensor terminal to the ECU terminal? Once again, if the tachometer does not see a ground signal from the remote tank sensor the right bar will disappear and the middle bar will flash. If the ECU does not see a ground signal from the remote tank sensor then it will inhibit (not allow) the automatic oil transfer system to function. Why are you messing with the engine mounted small tank when clearly the issue is with the boat mounted tank or the wiring thereto? The whole system can be stripped from the motor if that is what someone wants to do. I missunderstood what you wrote earlier as problems around the engine mounted tank.

Yamaha Vmax Hpdi Reviews

And that that was the place where I was supposed to look. Will check everything above on the remote tank!:) All times are GMT -7.

The time now is 07:03 AM.