Omc 115 Turbojet Service Manual
I have a 1995 rage15 with a omc 115 bubble back turbojet. Try and get a parts manual and repair manual for your OMC jet to see if there.
MODEL YEAR CHART MODEL HP YEAR 90JEEOB 90 1995 115JEERA 115 1994 115JEEOB 115 1995 115TJEOA 115 1995 115TJEDB 115 1996 115TJEDP 115 1996 115TJEUC 115 1997 Please review our before you place an order. DISCLAIMER The information provided on these pages is correct to the best of my knowledge, however the MasterTech makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the use of, results of, or liability created from, application of this data. This information is disseminated in good faith, however MasterTech assumes NO LIABILITY whatsoever in regard to this service.
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Author Topic: RAGE: 115-HP OMC Turbo Jet Overheating RageBuyer posted 01:10 AM ET (US) Following an over heat condition due to ingestion of sand, what repairs are need on a RAGE 14 with the 115-HP OMC engine? What should be cleaned? The engine has a new impellor and transfer case. I plan on buying the boat, but I have a limited budget.
Seahorse posted 04:09 AM ET (US) If you buy it, see any Johnson/Evinrude dealer and order the water strainer kit that will cut down on the cooling system plugging up with sand. To clean out all the sand in the passageways, be sure to remove the thermostat housing and the cylinder heads and clean out everything. Clark Roberts posted 07:34 AM ET (US) If you are on a VERY limited budget as you state, the best advice is most likely to stay away from this deal. Jimh posted 07:53 AM ET (US) Administrative post where2 posted 11:37 PM ET (US) Best thing you can do for starters is to use the OMC flushing attachment to move water through the engine without having to RUN the engine. That should help to remove the sand. Next, you need to do a compression check to make sure that the head gaskets are not blown, and that the heads are not warped. As Seahorse noted, you'll need to remove the thermostats to get the sand that passed by them.
When I bought my Rage, it had been overheated by the previous owner, and had already had the compression check done which indicated the engine needed to be rebuilt. (one cylinder was more than 10% away from the other 3 readings) The damage was more than just an overheating had caused. The damage that required the rebuild was carburetor related and had been going on for some time. Bob chose the other route and converted his to an Outboard when his Turbojet self destructed.
Neither path is inexpensive, even if you get the boat inexpensively. I've got close to fair market value in my Rage between buying it cheap, and having the engine rebuilt. The positive side is that I have a rebuilt motor in it, rather than a questionable one. I bought my 15' Rage as a second Boston Whaler. My first is a 1985 15' Sport which will run circles around the Rage.
However, the Rage is a fun boat with a different character. I had the only Rage at the Stuart Owner's Event last month. I'm still waiting to see the photos Boston Whaler's photographer shot of it.
Knowit posted 10:25 PM ET (US) Never flush the engine with the flush attachment without the engine running!!! You will back up water through the exhaust and into the cylinders. Trust me I know. The word from my mechanic is you can start the engine first then turn on the water but not at full blast. The reason why it is OK to start first is because there is no rubber impeller in this power plant.
Luckily I did no damage. Just scared the sh!. out of myself. Larry posted 10:36 AM ET (US) Certainly add the water strainer. Also the cylinder head bolts should be re-torqued. There is a difference of opinion about running the engine with the flushing attachment. I have flush mine for years with the engine off and never had a problem but knowit's experince is worth considering, so I would now run the engine before turning the water on.
Eitherway though I think you flush the engine better by actually running it as the jet may flush with more force than your average garden hose. There is a pressure relief valve that ONLY works with the housing closed, it does not work with the attachment, so the garden hose could also have too much pressure. Bottom line, add the strainer, torgue then run her but stay close to home till you feel comfortable.
Tearknee posted 08:31 AM ET (US) Hey where2 I want to convert my rage to an outboard can you giev me some ideas on what 'Bob' did? Thanks where2 posted 11:31 PM ET (US) Above is a helpful link to the post where Sraab928 is trying to figure out which propeller he needs for 'Bob's' former Rage conversion. Scott reworked what Bob had started, and the 'after' photos are amazing. Tearknee posted 12:19 PM ET (US) I am having trouble finding someone to work on my 115 jet. I am located in southwest Florida can anyone give me a reccommendation. Where2 posted 07:03 PM ET (US) Find a tree, a come-along, your wrench set, and any independent mechanic familiar with OMC outboard products. Unfortunately, the mechanic I use is on the East Coast of Florida.
I took my engine to him in the back of an Explorer, he rebuilt it and we loaded it back into the back of the Explorer. I did the remove and install myself, in the back yard. He also works on Yamaha engines, and is located in Stuart. What issue are you having? Tearknee posted 05:09 PM ET (US) When out of water runs fine with hose.
Put Boat in water and she overheats. Where2 posted 09:05 PM ET (US) Not the water pump. The entire jet assembly is the water pump on a Turbojet. There is no rubber impeller as an Outboard would have. The turbojet uses a hole located at 12 o'clock in the mid-section of the impeller assembly to collect pressurized water for cooling purposes. If you remove the rear funnel portion which compresses the water into a jet (four 6mm allen head bolts), you will find a large flat head screw.
Under that screw is a spring and a ball valve. The intent is that the ball valve opens at 20psi to vent excess pressure from the cooling system.
However, it is possible to get a piece of debris stuffed into that ball valve and vent the minor pressure available at idle. (I see 0-4psi at idle on my water pressure gauge). It would not take much loss to equal zero cooling water pressure. I mention this ball valve and the possibility of getting something stuck in it because it is in the portion of the impeller housing you 'pull back' to install the OMC garden hose adapter for flushing. Ordinarily, you would never know if it is leaking pressure or not. There is no effective way of testing the valve.
If for some reason, your engine ingested a piece of debris, and that piece of debris was small enough to go into the cooling water pickup hole, it could probably clog something enough to prevent adequate cooling. In theory, everything is supposed to pass through there and get hung up in your strainer, but there is always a possibility you got a Zebra mussel or something odd plugging up the hole. Run water backward through the impeller housing cooling water passage.
See if something comes out. An86carrera posted 10:23 PM ET (US) RageBuyer has no profile, no posts, no nothing???????? Tearknee posted 10:47 AM ET (US) Thanks where2.I will give that a try. LDC posted 12:06 PM ET (US) Where2, I am looking at a 94 rage14, the seller is asking $1000. It needs a new power head, can you give me some advice on removing the existing engine and put an outboard on it.
Is the Rage transom strong enough for an outboard? What's the min HP outboard? Is it worth the effort to modify the rage jet to rage with an outboard engine? Or just keep looking to find a 15 to 17ft whaler with an outboard engine? Thank you for your help. LDC where2 posted 06:31 PM ET (US) For the record, I still have an OMC Turbojet 115Hp engine in my Rage. However, is a link to a thread started by user Sraab928 (Scott) who has successfully converted his Rage to outboard power.
You really have to want the mini-console large trunk functionality to go to the trouble of converting a Rage to outboard power. It's far more time consuming than just bolting a bracket on the back.
You need to reinforce the transom (which is just a foam sandwich) to be able to withstand the forces at work with a bracket. If I wanted a 15' Whaler, I'd buy one intended for an outboard. I bought my own Rage as a project, and it has turned out to be an interesting little boat to own. I already owned a 15Sport when I bought my Rage. I have not sold the sport, and the wife won't let me sell the Rage.
So, I've got the best of both worlds. Outboard and Jet sraab928 posted 07:13 PM ET (US) LDC, Feel free to contact me about the project if you want. I can give you as much info as you want. For me it comes down to the unique factor. I kinda like having something different. Scott LDC posted 12:14 AM ET (US) Where2 & Scott, I bought the rage14 tonight and I don't know anything about boats.
$1000 for a whaler sounded really good and the boat is in good condition. Like where2 had mentioned, I thought I can just go buy an used outboard and mount it to the rage.
My first question is should I stay with jet, how much cost to repower the existing Johnson? Should I replace Johnson with other brand, like yamaha?
What would that cost? 2nd question, if I try to convert it to outboard like Scott has done, how do I strengthen the transom? What else do I need to modify? I think I can get a used outboard for about $1500. I saw a used one today for under $1000.
At this point I am leaning toward outboard because I plan to use the boat for scuba diving and Monterey Bay has a lot of seaweed. Thank you for being so helpful and I will be asking a lot more questions if you guys mind. Sraab928 posted 08:08 AM ET (US) LDC, Can I use the email from your profile?
I will email you pics of how I did it. It really isn't hard, just time consuming. I knew nothing of fiberglass work before starting this project so the beginning went a bit slow.
Then I had a bad bicycle accident and required shoulder reconstruction surgery, which took me out of the game for about 6 months. Anyway I found it to be one of the most rewarding projects I had ever done. Nothing like the sense of accomplishment creating something different.
When people ask what the heck is that - I can answer its my creation - with of course the inspiration of on Mr. Bob Kemmler Jr.
(see Bob I spelled it right!). He was the one who originally had enough guts to go out and try it when everyone told him not to. For that I truly owe him a debt of gratitude.
Let me know Scott LDC posted 01:29 PM ET (US) Scott, please feel free to e-mail me anytime. Dchanpost@yahoo.com I check the engine compartment this morning and all I see are engine parts everywhere. I am not a mechanic and that's why I was planning to install the outboard. Sraab928 posted 02:43 PM ET (US) LDC - You've got mail.
NVAKeith posted 10:25 PM ET (US) Bump! This is my first post here and I apologize if I should have started a new topic, but this existing topic seems relevant to my problem.
I recently took over my father's 1997 Rage 15 with the OMC 115. It has had the raw water strainer since new. I believe this boat has a total of 40 to 50 hours on it.
115 Turbojet Parts
For the first 5 years it lived on the Port Saint Lucy inlet in Stuart, FL which I believe is brackish water depending on the tides. Since then it has had a fresh water life and has been used twice in the past 5 years. Now that I am trying to use it, it has an overheating problem.
It will happily idle when using the garden hose flush kit, however it will give the overheat alarm on the hose adapter if RPMs increase to around 3,000 for approx 1 minute. When in the water it will sound the overheat alarm after approximately 5 minutes, even if just idling at the dock. The raw water strainer is clean. Water is flowing though it, both when using the garden hose flush kit and when in the water. I back flushed the water intake port and it is clear. I cannot check the condition of the raw water pressure relief valve in the impeller housing because the relief plug is stuck in place. I purchased the factory service manual and an infrared thermometer to trouble shoot the overheating and determined today that the cylinder heads are operating at different temperatures.
On the garden hose flush kit, the starboard head runs approximately 10 to 20 degrees hotter than the port head. Today, after idling approx 10 minutes, the port was 168 and starboard was 188. After idling approx 15 minutes, the port was 178 and starboard was 190. I then increased the RPMs to 3,000 and after 1 minute the port was 185 and starboard 200, at which time the overheat alarm sounded.
Not sure if it's relevant, but the engine also emits an occasional knock (approx every 10 seconds), which I guess may just be an occasional miss fire? I attribute that to the gas being a mix of preserved 2 year old stuff mixed with some fresh. At this point i believe my next step is to pill the motor and check/clean/replace the thermostat on the starboard head.
Anything easier I should try first?? The owner's manual says that after a repeated overheats to have the cylinder head and exhaust cover screws torqued. But I haven't found a specific sequence for doing that in the service manual. Any help or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks, -Keith where2 posted 09:31 PM ET (US) Torque sequence: Page 4-26 of the Turbojet Service Manual, along with the torque specification of 18-20 ft.
They all knock, or atleast most of them do from what we've gathered over the years. My knock lessened when I figured out that the impeller was actually hitting the wear ring due to a growth of corrosion between the wear ring and the impeller assembly. I grind the high spot down with a Dremel every so often to keep things turning freely now that I know what the issue is on mine. (I have a spare impeller assembly for the day when this no longer works). I know where the St. It's home of Marine Max of Stuart, and one of the annual Boston Whaler Owner's events each summer. Thus far, the only event I can manage to attend every year.
Took my 15Rage once, had my 15Sport twice. Have to take the Rage next summer. I've run across one woman on the internet in North Carolina who had repeated overheat issues that turned out to be some sort of mysterious restriction in the impeller assembly itself.
She went around and around trying to determine why the boat would run fine on the garden hose in the driveway for 20-30 mintues, and yet in the water it overheated in the first 5 minutes. She finally tracked it down to the impeller assembly. She gutted her existing assembly and built up a brand new assembly and everything was fine using the new aluminum casting, so obviously there is a chance of getting something stuck in the passage ways of the impeller assembly to the point that it will not pass sufficient water to cool the engine. I've run mine tied up to the dock at all sorts of RPM's including WOT, and never had it overheat at the dock. I've had it overheat just up the canal, once while waterskiing when I stopped to pickup a skier, and once while out on the St. Lucie River (sucked up a bunch of Sargasso Sea Weed) at the Boston Whaler Owners Event mentioned above.
Omc 115 Turbojet Service Manual Download
If it runs fine on the garden hose, and the head temps are below 163째F then there is some sort of issue with the impeller assembly providing adequate water. The impeller assembly simply brings water from the jet into the engine to use as cooling water. I have yet to be able to get my screw cover behind the pressure relief plug out so I can see how the passageways work inside the impeller assembly. I think my original may either have an obstruction, or a poor seal on the over pressure relief, allowing some extra water to escape the cooling system.
I'll have to disassemble the spare impeller assembly and see if I can disassemble it. Larry posted 10:47 PM ET (US) Also you should remove the large J shape exhaust hose to check if it has delaminated and blocked cooling water exhaust flow. They can feel normal from the outside. NVAKeith posted 05:15 PM ET (US) Thanks for the suggestions. I was going to spend my weekend messing with it and most likely tackling the thermostats.
But I.just. found a local mechanic that claims to have a good amount of experience with these OMC TurboJets. I will drop it off tomorrow and let him have a stab at it. Where2 posted 07:23 PM ET (US) Powerhead wise, it's just a V4 Johnson/Evinrude. Cooling system wise, it's quirky.
Omc 115 Turbojet Timing
ModernRocketry posted 06:57 PM ET (US) I hope you guys don't mind me posting in the Whaler section, but Whalers are the only other boat with the same propulsion as my boat. I have a 14' Novurania (Rigid Inflatable Boat) It's powered by the Johnson Evinrude 115 Turbo Jet. When it idles, I hear a rattle coming from under the engine.
Once you power-up, the rattle stops. From my googling, it seems that a lose impeller is the culprit. Has anyone had any experience tightening this impeller? I don't want to make an expensive mistake.
Also, have any of you installed the new 'bushing' that supposedly makes the jet quieter when using the stainless steel impeller? Thanks, ModernRocketry where2 posted 11:08 PM ET (US) I have disassembled my impeller housing, installed new bearings and seals in it, and reassembled it. The thing that got rid of the knocking clunk at idle was grinding off the spot where one blade of the impeller was actually hitting wear ring due to corrosion between the aluminum housing and the stainles steel ring. (grind down the wear ring, not the blade on the impeller!) I do not know to which 'bushing' you are referring.
Please check out the exploded parts diagrams on Evinrude.com's website by following this link: and hitting the 'find engine diagrams' button in the middle of the page. Use the drop down at the upper left to choose 'TurboJet' and pick your year engine. Then let me know which part number corresponds to the 'bushing' you were going to replace? Is it actually the wear ring?? ModernRocketry posted 07:25 PM ET (US) Where2, Thanks for the reply. Can you clarify something for me: I was thought that the impeller was just above the grate on the bottom. But according to the diagrams (very cool resource!) It is in the portion of the drive that you pull out to flush the engine.
So if I understand this correctly, I should be able to remove housing using the two clamps on each side and disconnecting the control cables. After that, did you just turn the impeller by hand to find the high spot? Did you use a dremel? Thanks again for the great resource! Miles vikingasia posted 02:30 PM ET (US) I have a 14 foot Rage (115 hp Jet) - for about 5 years or so - I get the alarm ON, BUT the 'alarm check' (ground harness to block with Ignition 'ON' brings on the 'horn'.???) I'm concerned that the 'sensors' are bad (they seem potted with epoxy in the heads? (and I don't REALLY want to replace the heads?)) Is there any way to 'test' the sensors themselves (like how many ohms 'open'???) I have the 'extra' strainer (no sand) and I have external flush - pre-installed in the boat - which is 'teed' into the cooling line after the strainer) I don't believe I'm really overheating (and the horn sounds at 'low rpm / low speed but goes away after 5-15 seconds as I speed up?
Any thoughts? Bill in Stuart, Florida RandyV posted 10:49 PM ET (US) As someone here suggested, I removed the thermostats and poppet valves on a rage I owned. Living in Michigan, I used this boat in early spring when water temps were very cold and everything ran & operated great. This indicates to me that the 115 coupled to this jet tends to run hot and can deal with the thermostats and poppet valves removed. This boat was purchased from at a State sale and was a State Police boat which was fitted with the fesh water strainer from the factory (I believe). This being so, I assumed the cooling system after the strainer was clean so I removed all hoses & fittings prior to the strainer only to find a stone which had been pushed up to the point of the fitting just prior to the fresh water strainer.
This partially blocked water flow but not completely. After removal, I used this boat for 2 years with no problem. No thermostats, no poppet valves. Cooling system wide open to cooling flow and had no poor combustion or cold running problems, even in water temps below 45 deg. My advice is to remove thermostats & poppet valves and check all hoses in the cooling system for blockages.
Remove hoses and remove fittings to verify there is no foreign material blocking the flow of water. Do not reinstall new thermostats or poppet valves - they are not needed! McScott posted 03:45 PM ET (US) I own a 1994 Boston Whaler 14' Rage. Last year I started to experience problems at full power.
When I am at full throtlle I can go around a approx. One mile lake maybe several times and than all of a sudden it is as though some reached up and pulled back on the throtlle, yet the throtle is still up. I back it down, it stays running, I try to plane again and it bogs down. I do this a couple of times before I decide to wait at idle for a few minutes. After waiting a few minutes at idle I push the throttle up and it takes off, I might get around the lake one to two times (sometimes more) before it does it again. I have never had problems under low power or idle.
The last time I took it out I got around the lake maybe 8 times before it started to do this. Any ideas, I am at a loss. I was thinking about taking it to a local repair shop but thought I would post here first. I would appreciate any insight. Turbojetmarineproducts posted 08:56 PM ET (US) Could be loosing fuel pressure due to a failing fuel pump.
When it decideds it does not want to re-accelerate, try pushing in on the key switch (Fuel Primer)and see if the motor responds. Escape pod posted 11:47 PM ET (US) I had same problem but not as consistent as you described. Clogged fuel pick up in the fuel tank was the problem. Had mechanic clean it out and problem solved. Probably from old fuel sitting for a long time.
Harpermf posted 08:00 PM ET (US) Sorry for the newbie post. Where the heck do you attach the external flush attachment? I got one for an evinrude jet drive (AKA OMC). I have a Sunbird 1994 with the 115 V4 evinrude and OMC jet drive. I plan to use it in salt water and would really like to have a way to flush the engine (also to run it out of the water).
Any help is appreciated. Markyjoe posted 07:53 PM ET (US) I am having an over heating problem, my 1995 rage 90hp omc runs fine on the hose but when I put it in the water it overheats at idel within 2 minutes. I read about the ball valve may not be operating properly in the Turbojet drive unit and so took it off the boat to have a look. I could not remove the plug to get at the ball and spring assembly. I sprayed oil and air into it from the back side to feel it up, it felt better but still have the original problem of over heating. Any tricks on removing the plug in the Turbojet unit, also any over heating advice would be appriciated.
Omctech posted 02:14 PM ET (US) there are several methods to accomplish this task. First of all let me tell you it is THE most common overheat failure on these. Some of these boats used a plastic ball and others used SS. Try a dental tool to hook it out or also try using a small piece of plastic tubing hooked onto a shop vac to remove it.
Next step - removing the powerhead to service the thermostat - hopefully that wont be required. How are you measuring head temp?dont rely on the warning horn. Blomsport posted 08:05 AM ET (US) Looking for information on OMC turbojet 115 motors. I have a zodiac maxi which has this motor. It was stored for 2 years. We took it out of storage and attached a garden house to run the engine and ran into difficulties. We found water in #3 and #4 cylinders.
I had a teck tell me that this is an indication that the adapter housing may be shot. Is it possible that the water backed up through the exhaust when we did njot get the boat running? Vegtech posted 09:53 AM ET (US) I have just rebuilt a omc115tj for a friend and it was a few months between tear down and rebuild now i am having a hard time figuring out some of the wires and more inportantly the hoses. Anyone know of a diagram or a book? Please Help Hop to.